Archive for September, 2008

Saving Gas by Improving Mileage

26 Sep, 2008  No Comment


Car Maintenance 101: Checking your Rotor and Distributor Cap

23 Sep, 2008  No Comment

When it comes to vehicle repair, the distributor cap is hardly mentioned as one of the main sources of vehicle problems. But despite being a relatively low-key part of your ignition system, the distributor cap is actually one of the most important parts of your ride.

If you have a damaged distributor cap, expect […]

Auto Enhancements: All About the Cold Air Intake

23 Sep, 2008  No Comment

For car enthusiasts, there’s nothing more satisfying than driving a high-performance ride equipped with an extremely powerful engine. While engine modifications may require an overhaul of your engine system, one way by which you can enhance your vehicle’s performance without having to make drastic alterations on your engine is by using a high-quality cold air […]

Car Maintenance 101: Bleeding your Brakes (Two-Person Brake Fluid Flushing)

23 Sep, 2008  No Comment

While brake bleeding is a crucial part of auto maintenance, it’s not really something that people like to do. Bleeding your brakes can be an extremely messy affair, plus if you’re the guy (or girl) who gets stuck removing the bleeder screws or brake bleed screws, it requires a lot of contorting just to gain […]

Addressing Auto Problems: Troubleshooting an Automatic (Part I)

20 Sep, 2008  No Comment

Driving a car with an automatic transmission? While making modifications and replacements to this transmission is best left to the professionals, it’s still crucial that you troubleshoot your transmission once in a while or the moment you notice problems every time you shift gears. By correctly identifying your transmission problem, or at the very least […]

Car Maintenance 101: Checking Your Braking Components

5 Sep, 2008  No Comment

Action movie cliché (that works oddly well, might I add): hero gets into his car, drives off, and rapidly approaches a cliff only to realize that his brake lines have been sabotaged by the bad guy. He jumps off of his moving vehicle, miraculously escaping with just a few bruises and a […]

Action movie cliché (that works oddly well, might I add): hero gets into his car, drives off, and rapidly approaches a cliff only to realize that his brake lines have been sabotaged by the bad guy. He jumps off of his moving vehicle, miraculously escaping with just a few bruises and a limp, and his car zooms off of the cliff and tumbles, causing a huge explosion.

While this occurrence may be pretty rare in real life, it makes of you think of how important your car’s brakes are. You already know that your braking system is one of the most important auto systems installed in your vehicle, but when was the last time you actually inspected your numerous brake components?

When driving, you use your brakes everyday. If you’re a new driver, you probably use your brakes a lot more than you really have to.

The older your vehicle gets, the longer it usually takes before your brakes kick in. Sometimes you have to depress on your brake pedal extra-hard or pump it several times just to come to a complete stop. If these are some of the symptoms that you experience when braking, then there’s a high chance that some of your braking system’s components are in need of adjustment, repair or replacing.

To prevent any future accidents caused by brake-failure, remember to check your brakes twice a year and to look for signs of damage and wear. Catching damage before it becomes too costly can help save you money, and more importantly, can save your life as well.

Most vehicles should allow you to inspect their braking systems without having to remove the wheel. If you’re currently driving with alloy wheels, then you can simply peep through its holes to check out your braking connections. Whether you’re going to be doing some “peep-work” or you have to remove your wheels to access your components, the important thing is to have a clear view of the large shiny  brake disc and your brake pads.

When you check out your brake disc, look for signs of wear or damage. It should be shiny from its outer edge, right to the inside. If there are slight scratches, then these signs of damage can be dismissible. If, however, you’re looking at huge dents, corrosion spots or bumps, then you need to have your brake disc removed and replaced as soon as possible. When replacing one brake disc, it pays to replace the other one as well. Replace your damaged brake discs to improve your vehicle’s safety and drivability.

Next, have a look at your brake lines. Brake lines are generally made to be pliant and soft. If your current brake lines are rigid and are sporting cracks, then they need to be replaced. Check out the metal lines as well. See any signs of corrosion? If you do, then that’s another indication that it’s time to replace your brake lines.

Lastly, you’ll need to check out your brake pads. As for your pads, you’ll have to exert more effort to see them. Peek up to see the top of your brake disc, and there you’ll find the outside of the pad touching the disc. If there’s just 1/8 of an inch remaining on the brake pad, then you need to replace the pad immediately. If you’re worried about costs, then you’ll be glad to know that brake pads can be pretty cheap, especially if you buy them from the right auto parts shop.

Never underestimate the importance of correct and regular auto maintenance. If you see any problems with your brakes and braking components that needs addressing, don’t put it off for weeks. It’s better to be safe than to compromise your safety and that of your loved ones’ as well.

Source: Auto Mechanic | Auto Mechanic Repair and Maintenance Tips

-->

Car Terminology: Discussing DTC (Diagnostic Trouble Code) and DTC Readers

5 Sep, 2008  No Comment

The days of playing “guess-what’s-wrong-with-your-automobile” is long-gone. With most of the vehicles today being a lot smarter through computerization and better technology, auto repair and vehicle troubleshooting has become easier and smarter as well.

These days, you’ll notice more and more auto shops using handheld devices or plugging your vehicle into a […]

The days of playing “guess-what’s-wrong-with-your-automobile” is long-gone. With most of the vehicles today being a lot smarter through computerization and better technology, auto repair and vehicle troubleshooting has become easier and smarter as well.


These days, you’ll notice more and more auto shops using handheld devices or plugging your vehicle into a console that lets the read the information from your engine system’s onboard computer. Most of the time, mechanics today read the DTC that they get from your vehicle.

So what exactly does DTC mean?

DTC, as you can already surmise from the title, is an acronym for “Diagnostic Trouble Codes”. Today’s computerized engine control system can up to a certain point self-diagnose to detect auto problems that could be affecting your vehicle’s emissions and engine performance. This also goes for the onboard systems and the antilock brake systems controlled by your engine’s computer.

When your engine control system detects a problem, the computer stores the diagnostic trouble code in its memory. This is the time that the “check engine” sign lights up. There are some automobiles today that can activate its special diagnostic mode by grounding some terminals found on the diagnostic connector. Doing so causes your “check engine” and other lights to flash out the problem code. But for most vehicles, to obtain the diagnostic trouble code, all you have to do is plug-in a diagnostic trouble code reader (DTC Reader) or scan tool into the computer system.

Finding A DTC Scan Tool or Reader

If you’re nowhere near any fully-equipped auto repair shop then you’ll be glad to know that there are many companies offering Diagnostic Trouble Code Readers and scan-tools at economical prices. The most inexpensive variants should cost you just around $60. Of course, the more advanced the device is, the more expensive it tends to be. If you can’t purchase your own DTC reader, then another option is to rent one from a rental center or an auto parts store.

Some auto shops will also run these diagnostic tests for a small fee, just make sure you get your auto checked regularly. If a problem is found, ask a mechanic from the shop to go over the details and codes with you so you can determine whether it’s your engine, exhaust or some other component that needs fixing or replacing.

To decipher the codes yourself, look up the diagnostic trouble codes on your automaker’s website or your owner’s manual.

Source: Auto Mechanic | Auto Mechanic Repair and Maintenance Tips

-->

Addressing Auto Problems: Dealing with a Battery Light that Remains Lit

5 Sep, 2008  No Comment

Your dashboard is filled with different auto lights, all of which have separate functions. These lights are excellent indicators when it comes to finding out what’s wrong with your vehicle. For example, we all know that when a tiny sign bearing open car doors turn on, it means that one of your auto doors […]

Your dashboard is filled with different auto lights, all of which have separate functions. These lights are excellent indicators when it comes to finding out what’s wrong with your vehicle. For example, we all know that when a tiny sign bearing open car doors turn on, it means that one of your auto doors is not locked or properly shut. When the gas pump warning light lights up, it means that you need to get to the nearest gas station to fill up your tank, and so on and so forth. But what does it mean when your battery light goes on and remains lit?

Before you start panicking, or rushing off to find your jumper cables, it’s important that you check your owner’s manual first to find out what it says about your auto’s battery light.


Keep in mind that oftentimes, the battery light does not just indicate problems with the actual battery itself. Sometimes this light can turn on just because the water levels in your battery are running low. Most of the time, your battery light won’t switch on just because your battery is low on power or is damaged. In most cases, this light turns on when your alternator is not doing its job properly.

The alternator is the part of your ride that charges and recharges your battery continuously throughout your travel. When your battery fails (especially if it’s brand new), chances are, you’ve got a problem with your alternator.

Now, what should you do when your battery lights engage while you’re driving? If your battery is not malfunctioning when the signal lights up, there’s usually no need for you to pull over immediately. If it remains lit, then try to find a safe place to park or try to get home as quickly as possible—there should be enough time for you to pull over safely before a dead battery stops you completely.

To prevent draining your battery completely as you drive, remember to:

1. Try not to make more demands on your auto battery. This means turning off all your unnecessary auto accessories like cabin lights, your radio and a/c system.

2. Unless you’re parked safely at home or in the emergency bay, try not to turn off your engine. Most of the time, the moment you turn off your engine it won’t start again. Avoid the risk of getting stranded in the middle of nowhere by trying to reach a safe and accessible area before parking your vehicle.

3. If you can, try to drive to a nearby garage or auto parts shop. If the auto problem you’re facing is serious, then chances are, you won’t be able to run tests on your alternator to determine if it truly is damaged.

4. If you’re able to reach the auto parts store or garage, leave the vehicle running when you call the available mechanic/s. Remember, a customer-oriented auto parts store and a garage can perform tests on your alternator to determine if you need to replace this vehicle part.

Aside from the alternator, other possible culprits behind the battery light that refuses to go out include: a loose alternator, a loose fan belt and low water levels inside your auto battery. Checking your battery’s water levels (and adding more if needed) is an important part of correct battery maintenance. Make sure you won’t neglect this simple procedure the next time you conduct maintenance checks on your vehicle.

If you’re unable to get to a service professional or garage in time (if it’s late at night or you find yourself stuck on the side of the road miles away from help), conduct the following steps if possible:

Step #1: Try to get home in one piece with your vehicle if the battery permits it. We all know it’s much easier to practice auto maintenance and checks when in the comforts of a garage. If this isn’t possible, then bring out your mobile phone, you may need to call someone for assistance or a ride home.

Step #2: If it’s dark, have a flashlight handy. Proper lighting is one of the most important things you’ll have to remember when conducting auto work. You wouldn’t want to disconnect a crucial auto part by mistake, would you?

Step #3: Turn off your vehicle, open your hood and wait for all your components to cool down. Again, attempting to conduct work on your engine compartment immediately after driving for miles is never a good idea. Since you’re going to be checking your battery cables, give your auto (and yourself) a quarter of an hour or longer to cool down.

Step #4: Check your battery cables. Look for signs of slack in the connection. If the cables are loose, then you need to tighten them. Check your battery mount as well. If it moves or rocks forward and backwards, then you have an unsecured or loose battery connection—and this could prevent your battery from performing well. A loose battery could also damage its surrounding components, so you need to firmly secure this auto part.

Step #5: Look for your alternator. If you have your owner’s manual nearby, then it should give you an idea on where you need to look. If there are no descriptions then look for your fan belt. The fan belt should be attached to the alternator. If your fan belt is loose, or if any other connection to your alternator is loose but undamaged, then you’ll need to conduct some work on these auto parts.

Step #6: If your car battery requires maintenance, then check your water levels and see if you need to add more water. If you’ve recently changed batteries, then there are usually instructions included in your new auto battery on how to open its cells to check the water level. If the level is low, you might have to add water—sometimes even distilled water.

Step #7: Now, try restarting your car to see if the light stays on. If it’s still on, then you need to take your vehicle to a nearby garage as soon as possible.

Source: Auto Mechanic | Auto Mechanic Repair and Maintenance Tips

-->

Addressing Auto Problems: Should You Replace Your Thermostat?

5 Sep, 2008  No Comment

Most of the time, replacing a thermostat need not be taken to the professionals. Depending on the design of the auto units under your hood, this job should be pretty easy to accomplish. Before doing anything under your auto’s hood, it’s highly important that you first, in a way, get “acquainted” with […]

Most of the time, replacing a thermostat need not be taken to the professionals. Depending on the design of the auto units under your hood, this job should be pretty easy to accomplish. Before doing anything under your auto’s hood, it’s highly important that you first, in a way, get “acquainted” with the different auto components located there. The more familiar you are with your auto systems’ layouts, the easier it is for you to replace and repair various auto parts.

Keep in mind that your auto thermostat won’t be easy to spot the first time around. It has its own housing and is generally located near the forefront of your engine, near your top radiator hose. To replace your thermostat, you need to first remove it from the housing. If there is a gasket, inspect it and replace it if it is no longer in great working order.

Some tools you may need for this job includes antifreeze or coolant, a rag for cleaning the thermostat housing and a screwdriver.

Follow these easy steps on replacing your thermostat.

Step #1: Make sure the engine is cool to touch. If your vehicle has just overheated, remember to wait an hour or two for the vehicle’s operating temperatures to go down.

Step #2: Work in a well-lighted area. Since you’ll be tampering with some of the most vital auto components in your vehicle, make sure you won’t accidentally sever anything that you’re not supposed to. A well-lighted area should prevent you from making any crucial errors when replacing your thermostat.

Step #3: Open your vehicle’s hood.

Step #4: Look for your vehicle’s thermostat housing. As I mentioned earlier, the thermostat housing should be near your top radiator hose, in front of your engine. If you can’t spot it, then it’s best to bring out your owner’s manual and look for it there. Unfortunately, there are some manuals that won’t indicate the exact location of the thermostat housing. If your other reference materials fail to show you where the thermostat is located, look between the engine block and the top radiator hose—it should be around the area.

Step #5: Now that you’ve located the housing, disconnect your top radiator hose. The radiator hose is usually connected using a clamp. Remove one end of the clamp to release the hose.

Step #6: Pull the housing and remove the thermostat housing cover gently. Don’t yank. Subtle force should be enough to pry the cover loose. Set the cover aside.

Step #7: Before hastily removing the thermostat, take the time to find out how it is installed. Since you’re going to be installing a new thermostat, it saves time to first figure out how the thermostat attaches to the housing.

Step #8: Remove the thermostat. If there are rotten gasket bits present, remove those as well. Put your thermostat aside for later disposal and wipe clean the interior of the housing. Look for any other decaying bits from the gasket and try to gauge whether or not you need to replace your gasket as well.

Step #9: Insert your new thermostat (and gasket) into place. In most cases, thermostats need to lean towards the engine block, with its top bit facing the component. If the thermostat you’re installing comes with a jiggle valve (the bell-like valve found on one side of this type of thermostat), make sure it’s on top to let bubbles pass through.

Step #10: Replace the housing cover if applicable.

Step #11: Bring the housing back into its original position and secure it. Most of the time, the thermostat housing is secured into place with clamps or bolts. Before doing anything else, make sure the housing is securely in place.

Step #12: Connect your top radiator hose again.

Step #13: Check your radiator and radiator overflow tank’s levels. If they’re running low, add some water-coolant mixture and leave the radiator cap off for a while.

Step #14: Start your engine and let it run for a bit.

Step #15: Check your radiator’s fluid levels. Add more coolant if you need to, but don’t fill the entire radiator with water-coolant mixture. There should be enough room in the neck to let air escape. The levels should drop when your engine begins to warm up. If the level goes too low, then add some more water-coolant mixture after you turn off your engine.

Step #16: Turn on your heater full-blast.

Step #17: Check your radiator’s fluid levels once more. If things are working normally, wait for the engine to reach normal operating temperatures.

Step #18: Once in the normal operating temperatures, turn off your heater and your engine.

Step #19: Once again, check your radiator’s fluid levels and re-fill with water-coolant mix if needed.

Step #20: Replace your radiator cap.

Step #21: Close your vehicle’s hood and clean the surrounding areas up.

Step #22: Note down the procedures you followed and the date you changed your thermostat for future reference. It’s always best to keep track of any auto modifications, repairs and part-replacements you make, so that in the future, if you need to replace an auto component earlier than usual, you can determine if your vehicle has bigger problems you need to worry about. Some owner’s manuals have spaces at the back for personal notes on your auto. If you’ve already used up the last few pages of your manual, use a small notebook for this purpose.

NOTE: While you may have just successfully replaced your thermostat, it’s important that you monitor your engine’s temperature gauge the next few days after the installation. This should give you an idea if you did install your thermostat correctly. If you still experience cooling troubles and auto overheating after replacing your thermostat, then there might be something else that’s wrong with your auto.

Source: Auto Mechanic | Auto Mechanic Repair and Maintenance Tips

-->

Addressing Auto Problems: Should You Replace Your Thermostat?

5 Sep, 2008  No Comment

Auto thermostats are generally expected to last a driver around two to three years. There are, however, some exceptions to the rule. Some thermostats can last for up to five years. But if you encounter frequent overheating problems, or if you notice that cold air is blowing from your auto’s vents, then you need to […]

« Older Entries